What about Pelleted Seeds?

Pelleted Crimson Clover
seeds

When shopping for Crimson Clover seeds earlier this fall, we bought some pelleted seeds at a local garden store because it was all they had. We had seen pelleted seeds before, but didn’t know much about them.  Always a good excuse to do some research.

Pelleted seeds are coated with an inert, organic material such as Bentonite, diatomaceous earth or talc. Pelleted seeds were initially used by large scale growers because their uniform shape and size works better in mechanical seeders. However, home gardeners are discovering the advantages of pelleted seeds and they can be found in gardening centers and online seed suppliers.

Bentonite clay is a volcanic material which swells and absorbs moisture. The coating may also include Perlite or an FDA approved coloring agent. Pelleted seeds don’t usually come with a list of ingredients. For instance, our clover seed, which is a legume, may well have been coated with inert material plus rhizobium bacteria to help the plants set nitrogen.

Seed coating methods also act as efficient carriers of chemicals, which can be applied on the seed surface. The chemicals involved are mostly fungicides and insecticides.  Several reports describe testing seeds coated with allelopathic chemicals to delay seed germination until weather conditions are optimal for growth or to control time of harvest.  In studies, the delay in germination had no negative effects on seedling growth or germination percentage.

Advantages of using pelleted seeds:

Larger seeds are easier to see and handle
Less wasted seed
Seeds don’t wash or blow away
Allows for correct spacing

Better germination

More vigorous seedlings
Eliminates thinning!
Clay coating preserves moisture and improves water uptake

Better protection from environmental stresses, pests and diseases

Work better with seeding tools

Great for kids!

The main disadvantage is a shorter shelf life.  Pelleted seeds should be used within one year of purchase.  The coating process shortens seed life, and the clay coating is affected by humidity and can break down over time, reducing germination.  Pelleted seeds are more expensive and limited in variety.  You may not be able to find the seeds you want in pellet form, and treated coatings may not be organic. After planting, pelleted seeds need to be kept uniformly moist, but not waterlogged, to allow the coating to dissolve so germination can take place.

If you have difficulty seeing or handling small seeds, or if you hate thinning things like lettuce, carrots, or radishes, perhaps pelleted seeds are right for you.

IFAS info on pelleted seeds:  https://propg.ifas.ufl.edu/04-seeds/02-technology/05-seedstesting-pelleted.html 

More about what goes into seed coatings, and what they do: https://summitseedcoatings.com/blog/seed-preparation/what-goes-into-seed-coatings-seed-coating-materials-and-what-they-do/

Growing in third world countries—making your own pelleted seed:  https://worldagriculturesolutions.com/2015/05/05/pelleted-seed-primer/

More about planting and storing pelleted seeds:  https://www.johnnyseeds.com/on/demandware.static/-/Library-Sites-JSSSharedLibrary/default/dwf4c9a8df/assets/information/pelleted-seed-tech-sheet.pdf

Wednesday in the Garden

Zinnias, trimmed up and 
rejuvenated.  

This week’s report from Garden Coordinator, Cathy Alfano:

Today in our garden was just awesome. Everyone pitched in and weeded the west side paths and beds, and it looks amazing! When I left, most all of the west side had been cleared of weeds and folks were putting down cardboard and mulch. 

The beds are also looking beautiful. Lots of winter crops coming up and the flower beds have been reinvigorated and are blooming. Folks also watered and planted in their beds. Carole gathered millet seeds and Peggy was harvesting roselle. Cathi dug some beautiful sweet potatoes and shared them with the group. It was a great day.

Photos from the last couple of weeks.  

Cathi, Evelyn and Linda
dug over half a bucket
of sweet potatoes 

Dave’s bed with snap peas,
ginger, and collards.  
Ready to climb!

Glen’s lettuce always looks great.  
 This season’s varieties (back to front):  
Silesia,  Brown Dutch, Oak Leaf,
Reinenes Glaces. 
All heirloom varieties 

 Marigold cover crop to deter
nematodes.  

Peppers still producing as the
weather cools. 

Jeanne’s Garlic is sprouting in the “B” beds. 
It will be ready to harvest late
next  spring. Varieties:  Vietnamese garlic,
elephant garlic, German hardy garlic

Lesser Known Grains

Pearl Millet

We don’t usually grow grains at home for consumption. They are used in our gardens as cover crops or as cash crops by farmers. 

Whole grains are well known to be important elements in a healthy diet.  They contain fiber as well as many vitamins and minerals. Our dietary grains are usually obtained from wheat, oats, corn, and rice.  A recent article in the New York Times called attention to some lesser known grains that are exceptionally nutritious.  They can all be easily grown in our area and are high in fiber and protein, as well as supplying ample amounts of vitamins and minerals.  Some are grains, which are the seeds of grasses, and the others are pseudo-grains, which are grain-like seeds from plants other than grasses.

All of the plants listed here are spring crops. Cereal grains such as wheat, oats, and rye should be planted in the fall to over winter and mature in the spring.

Buckwheat

Buckwheat—The VegHeadz have long sung the praises of buckwheat as a cover crop, and as an attractor of beneficial insects.  It is very easy to grow, but we have most often chopped it down before the seeds mature. It would be worth letting it finish ripening to harvest the seeds for use as a cereal grain or grinding into buckwheat flour.  Kasha is dry roasted buckwheat which is soaked and simmered to provide porridge, pilaf, or grain bowls. Buckwheat flour is used to make crêpe-like pancakes called blini or cookies and crackers. It is high in a chemical called rutin, which is said to promote heart health because it makes blood vessels strong and flexible.

Amaranth

Amaranth—The protein in amaranth can be easily absorbed by our bodies and can be used as a substitute for other proteins.  Aztec and Inca civilizations used it as a staple. The amaranth we have grown as an experiment has had no problems with pests and diseases and produced an abundant crop of the tiny, crunchy seeds.  Amaranth is often grown as an ornamental because of the interesting flowers and seed heads, and the various colors available.  It produces nutritious cooked greens in the summer and the seeds can be used as a substitute for rice in most recipes.

Millet—We have grown pearl millet in the VegHeadz garden on several occasions and currently have a small amount of a beautiful ruby-colored variety.  This is another protein and fiber rich grain, which also provides iron, magnesium and potassium. It has a light, fluffy texture when cooked and a nutty flavor.  Millet cooks faster than brown rice and can be used as a base in grain bowls, vegetable fritters or whole meal salads.   

Pearl Millet
‘Purple Majesty’

Sorghum—The larger kernels of sorghum can be popped like popcorn or made into a creamy breakfast porridge similar to oatmeal. Sorghum flour can be used in gluten-free recipes and has a neutral flavor.  A variety called Sorghum bicolor is grown for the sweet juice from its canes which is made into molasses.  We have grown a cover crop which is a cross of sorghum and Sudan grass.  It is a large plant which grows rapidly and provides a huge amount of biomass for the garden.

Teff—The only one of the grains mentioned which we have not grown in the VegHeadz garden is teff. It is certainly worth trying because it is the most nutrient dense.   One cup of teff supplies about 10 g of protein and 7 g of fiber plus calcium and iron.  It is also high in resistant starch, which helps control blood sugar.  Its tiny seeds are gluten free.  Teff flour is used in Ethiopia to make a sour dough flatbread which is a staple there. Teff varies from white to red to brown with white being the most mild in flavor, deepening to a cocoa-like flavor in the darker colors. Teff needs warm weather to grow, and is tolerant of many soil conditions.  It should be our next growing adventure.  Maybe we can even try winnowing.

Threshing and winnowing grain is not something we usually experience as home gardeners. Things that need to be determined are the maturity of the seed heads, the moisture level of the seeds, and the humidity in the atmosphere. Manual harvesting methods for different grains can vary widely, and are usually quite labor-intensive. Once harvested the seed needs to be separated from the chaff (threshing), usually by beating with a stick.  Chaff consists of the empty seed heads and straw or other material from the plant. Winnowing involves pouring the grain from one container to another in front of a fan to allow the chaff to blow away from the heavier seeds.

Grains and seeds can be ground into flour with a high-speed blender, a coffee grinder, or an inexpensive grain mill.  There is even a grain mill attachment for KitchenAid stand mixers.

All of these grains and seeds can also be used as birdseed.  The grain heads can be left on the plants or cut and laid out for the birds to do their own harvesting, or they can be winnowed and stored like human food.

More about growing and harvesting grains here   

Wednesday in the Garden

Roselle blooms

A cool, breezy day in the garden.  The far reaches of Hurricane Milton are reminding us how fortunate we are to be in the near miss zone for Milton and for Helene just two weeks ago.  

Our gardeners were out doing fall tasks—cleaning up spent plants, nurturing fall crops, harvesting some late summer crops, and planting new things.   Weeding is certainly more rewarding when you know you won’t have to pull those summer weeds again for months.  

One thing that was planted today is 40 crocus corms. These particular crocuses bloom in the fall rather than spring, and they produce the most expensive spice in the world – saffron.  Saffron crocuses are relatively easy to grow, but harvesting the saffron stamens (each bloom produces just three) is so tedious, that they are not usually grown as a cash crop in the US.  We’re trying them out just for fun.  

Saffron Crocus corms
Crocus sativa 

Peggy has been harvesting gallons
of Roselle calyxes.  Fortunately,

the vinegar flags have kept the

deer away. 

 

Sweet potatoes have completely
enveloped part of the “A” beds.  
They will be harvested before frost.

Jessica has used old bamboo canes
to refurbish one of the 4-H beds.
We love the way it looks.
This bed is made from half of
one 4’ x 16’ cattle panel,
split lengthwise, making it
2’ high and 4’ square. 

Another one of the 4-H beds,
one of the easiest ways to build
a raised bed.  Each of the blocks is
6 inches high.  Two are used
on each corner here for a bed
12” deep.

Some of the perennials in the
forest garden do their best
in the fall.  Turmeric
Curcuma longa 

Culinary Ginger
Zingiber officinale

Comfrey
Symphytum officinale

Cherokee Greens or Sochan
Rudbeckia laciniata

Louie prepared the herb beds 
for winter and cleaned up
damaged plants 

Emma pulled up Yarrow 
growing into the pathway around the
bat house.  She will pot it up
to save for our spring plant sale.
 

Heather cleaned the spent
Loofah vines off the
central arbor.
 

Spotted Horsemint.  Great
for pollinators

 Nancy and Linda cleaned up
pollinator beds

 

 

Lulling Your Garden Beds to Sleep

Cathy, Evelyn and Mary prepping
beds for fall/winter crops

We love William Horvath’s information about permaculture and growing food.  His website, Permaculture Apprentice, can be accessed from the Permaculture Resources list on the right sidebar.  You can sign up on his site to receive his periodic emails   They always furnish tons of great information to inspire your gardening.  If you’re interested in learning more about permaculture, he offers excellent online courses.   

His latest offering is detailed information about improving your garden soil during fallow periods.  While it refers to gardens in cooler climates with no winter crop, this method can be used any time your garden beds are not in use for even short periods, or if some of your garden space is unused for a season, or any time you want to rejuvenate or boost your garden fertility.  It’s also good for annual ornamental beds in the off season.  

This method is a good idea to prepare for each new growing season, and doing it several weeks or months ahead gives soil organisms time to multiply and begin their work   

We share William’s information on putting your garden to sleep here:

“Imagine a lush and mature forest in the fall. Tall trees tower above, while diverse plants carpet the ground, and mushrooms sprout among them. As autumn progresses, trees shed their leaves, blanketing the forest floor, which is already full of plant debris. This rich organic matter layer made of dead plants and fallen leaves then creates a natural mulch atop the soil. Over the coming months, microorganisms slowly break down this mulch, recycling nutrients and delivering them to plant roots in spring. This is the process that creates that black, earth-smelling soil that's buzzing with life and full of nutrients! I want to help you mimic this process in your garden and prepare your garden beds for spring. If you are in the Northern Hemisphere, now is the best time to do this fall/winter soil building and improve the soil fertility of your overworked garden beds. I call this gardening project Putting Garden Beds to Sleep. So, let’s gently lull them to sleep, shall we? There are five simple steps to put your garden beds to sleep. STEP 1: Clean up the garden bed First, remove all weeds and plant debris from the garden bed. Pick up the dead and rotting vegetable parts and plants to eliminate the possibility of pests and diseases overwintering, and then restart in spring. Pull all weeds from the bed and dig their roots out; this will prevent them from taking over the bed in spring. STEP 2: Loosen up the soil Next, loosen up the soil a bit. This will add oxygen to the soil and help improve drainage before winter weather. Use a broad fork or pitchfork to do this. Here’s how this step looks like: Broadfork in Action STEP 3: Add soil helpers Now, inoculate your soil with helpers that will aid in decomposition and nutrient uptake. Unless the soil is already rich in soil life, add worms, mycorrhizal fungi, and beneficial bacteria. You can do this in a number of ways, from compost to compost tea and various inoculates you can make yourself (more on that some other time) STEP 4: Add organic materials and amendments Next, add soil amendments and compost to the beds. [Based on the results of a soil test] Depending on the nature of the deficiencies of your soil, you could use: Sulfur to lower the pH Lime to raise the pH Bonemeal or Phosphate Rock to increase phosphorus levels Alfalfa meal to improve the soil condition and nutrient composition. Kelp to supply a range of trace nutrients, as well as a dose of plant hormones. Wood Ash – to increase potassium levels and raise pH. Composted animal manure – to supply a variety of nutrients. Once you are done, spread generous amounts of compost, preferably from your compost pile or worm castings. Apply it in a 2 – 4 inch (5 – 10 cm) thick layer. Finally, work in the soil amendments and compost into the top 6 – 8 inches (15 – 20 cm) of the soil with a spade or digging fork. In my case, I’ve spread my not-fully-yet-decomposed compost, which will break down over the next 4-5 months. STEP 5. Add organic mulch for protection Lastly, add a layer of organic matter in the form of mulch. Mulch is like a warm blanket you spread over your garden to keep it safe and protected through the winter. A good mulch insulates the soil, keeping it from freezing or at least from freezing as deeply as it otherwise would. This allows soil organisms to remain active for much longer. It also prevents weeds from invading the dormant bed during winter, and as an icing on the cake, as it breaks down, it releases new nutrients into the ground. Leaves and leaf mold, grass clippings, straw, and hay are good choices for winter mulch. Spread the mulch evenly with your hands or rake. And that’s it. That’s how you lull your garden beds to sleep. You’ve added all these organic materials, and now it will start breaking down, enriching your soil, and becoming biologically active for your plants in the spring. Happy growing, -William”

All About Loofah Gourds and Sponges

The loofah gourds that have been growing all summer on the central arbor in the VegHeadz garden are maturing and ready for harvest. What do you do with a loofah gourd? Thanks to Master Gardener Peggy McDonald for the photos and this detailed information on growing and processing Loofah.

Natural loofahs or luffas are easy to grow from seed in your own backyard.  They produce biodegradable, environmentally friendly sponges from a gourd in the cucumber family. You may eat raw or cook small 6-inch loofah fruit as you would a squash or wait until the fruit matures to one and a half to two feet long to process into a vegetable sponge.

 Sow seeds in North Florida by mid-March directly in the ground in an area that has full sun, well-draining soil and always use a sturdy trellis or fence. Full sun means 6 hours of sunshine each day, but a little shade in the afternoon is okay. The seeds need to be planted about 1/2 inch deep and space them one foot apart. But be prepared, the vigorous vines can grow over ten feet long. Loofah-covered trellis arches can create a nice focal point in your garden.

 

These are annual vegetables, so they typically die in the winter. Our area, Zone 9a, can support two four-month growing seasons, one in the spring and another if planted in late July. If planted in the fall, try to pick the fruit before the first frost. 

 You may start harvesting when the skin of the gourd feels loose and pliable. Some say harvest when the fruit becomes light weight and the seeds rattle inside, others say wait for the loofah fruits to turn brown on the vine before harvesting them. Use clippers to cut the tough stems.

 

If you have timed it right, the skin will fall off very easily. Peel the brown skin off the fruit and you will be left with just the spongy, fibrous loofah sponge. But if the gourds are hard and brittle, let them soak in water for a few hours or overnight.

 

If you experience frost while growing a fall crop, harvest all the large fruit and peel them quickly before they decay. Some underdeveloped fruit may have fiber worth peeling. Throw each gourd hard to the ground. If the skin cracks, try peeling, if the gourd breaks throw it away. I do not suggest composting unless you can maintain a hot compost pile long enough to kill and break down the many large seeds.

 Submerge the peeled sponge in a bucket of warm water, squeeze and soon it will become flexible. Be sure to get rid of any pulp or slimy feeling by changing the water frequently.

 

The large black seeds can be removed by shaking the gourd over a container. To make it easier I cut my sponges into six-inch pieces and the seeds fall out easily. Each gourd will contain close to 100 seeds! If you do this outside in your garden be careful or you may have loofah seedlings coming up everywhere.

 

Leave the sponge to dry fully in the sun but rotate it so all sides get the same sun exposure. If there are brown spots on the loofah, you may use a very light 2% bleach solution (1 oz. or 2 tablespoons of bleach in 5 cups of water) for a few minutes, then rinse thoroughly. Do not soak overnight in bleach. I know from experience it causes the sponges to turn white and the fibers start to break down. Make sure the sponges are completely dry before storing.

 

Dry the seeds at room temperature for a few weeks and they will be ready for your next crop. Refrigerate or freeze in airtight containers for long term storage.

 

Natural loofahs are stronger and more abrasive than traditional sponges, making them better options for cleaning. Loofah sponges also make great holiday gifts.

 

IFAS Luffa

https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/edibles/vegetables/luffa

 

One loofah planted in a 
Vertical pallet garden 

 

Fall Cover Crops

Winter cover crop mix. Almost no weeds

in this area. Includes Austrian winter 

peas, cereal rye, hairy vetch, crimson

clover.

One of the things the VegHeadz are doing at this time of year is planting fall cover crops in open areas or where we’re not currently growing annual vegetables.

 

In addition to the usual benefits of cover crops – increasing organic matter, feeding microorganisms, suppressing nematodes, adding nutrients, preventing erosion, etc. — allelopathic cover crops can be selected to help combat weeds.

Allelopathic plants release chemicals that can inhibit the growth of other plants and reduce seed germination, including weeds. Some common allelopathic cover crops include:

Cereal Rye (Secale cereale) – One of the most widely known cool season allelopathic cover crops. It releases allelochemicals, which can suppress weed germination and growth. 

   

Hairy Vetch (Vicia villosa) – Also a cool season crop often used in combination with cereal rye, hairy vetch has some allelopathic properties that can suppress certain weeds.  Vetch is also a legume, harvesting nitrogen from the atmosphere.

Buckwheat (Fagopyrum esculentum) – Known for its quick growth and ability to suppress weeds during warmer weather through both shading and allelopathy.

Sorghum-Sudangrass (Sorghum bicolor x Sorghum bicolor var. sudanese) – This hybrid tropical crop is highly allelopathic and is often used to suppress weeds and even some pests during warm seasons.  This is a large plant, but it can be chopped and dropped several times during its growth to keep it more manageable.  It is even reported to discourage nutsedge.  

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) – Releases allelopathic compounds which inhibit the growth of nearby plants, making it useful for weed control during late spring and early summer.

Mustard (Brassica spp.) – Many mustard species produce glucosinolates that can suppress weeds and soil-borne pests throughout fall and milder winters into early spring.

Most cover crop mixes contain several of these varieties with different mixes for summer and winter planting. 

Allelopathic plants can be used strategically in crop rotations or mixed plantings to reduce weed pressure and improve soil health, but care should be taken as their allelopathic properties may also affect desired food crops if not managed properly.  For instance, plants with tiny seeds, like lettuce and carrots, tend do be more susceptible to allelopathic chemicals so you wouldn’t want to plant them in areas where weed-suppressing cover crops are growing or have just been grown.  Other plants with larger seeds are more resistant, such as beans and squash, or may be somewhat allelopathic themselves.  All allelopathic chemicals are not the same and specific plants may not be susceptible to a particular chemical.  

This is an area which needs more research and there is not much information available about specific plants and their allelopathic characteristics or tolerances.   Depending on your goal, allopathic plants can be helpful or harmful. 

Plant alleopathic cover crops and companion plants where you want to combat weeds. When you are planting a subsequent crop in that area, try one or more of these techniques:

• Terminate the cover crop at least two weeks or more before planting new crops. It’s a good idea to add mulch so the soil does not dry out. When planting the next crop, the mulch can be moved aside where you’re planting.
• Instead of chopping and dropping or turning under, pull up the allelopathic cover crop, roots and all, and deposit it in some other area to help deter weeds. The roots and decaying matter from terminated crops can continue to exude allelopathic chemicals.
• Apply several inches of new soil or compost before planting seeds to encourage germination in soil that does not contain detrimental chemicals.

Utilizing a crop rotation guide using information from whatever sources are available and your own observations will help manage the interactions between succeeding plantings in a way to maximize the desired results for both edible crops and cover crops. The four-year crop rotation schedule developed and used at the VegHeadz garden is available in the left sidebar.

More about Allelopathy

Cover crop planting and management guide

Cover Crop Growing Guide

Cover crops for North Florida

Wednesday in the Garden

It was lovely to see so many gardeners out on a Wednesday morning. It was slightly cooler and there was a lovely breeze, making it much easier to work.  We were delighted to be joined by some new gardeners, and we hope they become regulars.

Some things we noticed today —

We now know it’s possible to transplant a citrus tree. Our Meiwa Kumquat was not producing much fruit in the forest garden so we moved it further up the hill where it receives some morning sun and a good bit of afternoon sun. It is now thriving and full of fruit, as is the Owari Satsuma, which still remains in the forest garden.

Meiwa Kumquats

Bay Laurel (Laurus nobilis)

Owari Satsumas

The Bay Laurel shrub/tree is also thriving. There was a time when it looked straggly and pitiful and was covered with scale insects and mildew. The leaves today are pristine and would make enough Bay leaf seasoning to fill a swimming pool with soup.  We have no way to account for that other than we have many, many blooming companion plants and cover crops attracting good bugs which are no doubt helping to control pests.

Carole is growing pearl millet in her square foot plot.  Pearl millet is a good cover crop, and is tolerant of drought, heat, and poor soils.  It is not usually susceptible to pests and diseases.   It is also beautiful and is good food for birds and chickens. In other cultures it’s also eaten as porridge, as flour, and other culinary uses. It is high in protein and contains many vitamins and minerals. 

Pearl Millet
Pennisetum glaucum

‘Purple Majesty’

We were blessed last year with a donated Sweet Almond bush. (Thank you Kathy Rost) It was meant for the forest garden, but there was not enough sun there, so we planted it up the hill in front of the compost bins where it is very happy, even with no water in the heat, and has bloomed throughout the summer with a sweet almondy scent. It is not a native, but it is well suited for feeding pollinators. Read more about Sweet Almond Bush in the current issue of Gardening in the Panhandle.

https://nwdistrict.ifas.ufl.edu/hort/2024/09/04/florida-friendly-sweet-almond-bush/

We managed to catch some of the VegHeadz gardeners in action as we wandered through the garden. A number of the early arrivers had already gone home so we missed recording them.  Notice how happy they look.  Gardening is good for the soul.

The Edible Forest Garden is beginning to look like a real 
forest .  Pictured here in one small corner of the garden, on the left is
an olive tree backed by a native plum,
and farther back is a dwarf Cavendish banana.  On the right
is Turmeric next to a Loquat tree.