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It’s easy to end up with a lot of seedlings (maybe too many).
Depending on the size of the initial container, you may have to
pot up some of the plants. |
January is the time to start seeds for spring gardens in north Florida (Zone 9a). As each day grows longer, we begin to anticipate planting new baby plants in our gardens. The real advantage of starting seeds is the ability to select whatever variety you wish, and the cost saving of creating 100 plants for the same price as buying one. The main investment is for a grow light which can be used year after year. Placing seed containers on a windowsill or in a bright room does not really work.
Many vegetable seeds can be planted directly in the garden after the last frost. Some varieties do better when started early so they can go into the ground with a head start. This includes tomatoes, particularly, peppers, eggplant, some herbs, even summer squash. Summers get hot very early and the sooner we can get plants to maturity before it gets too hot, the more success we will have in growing healthy vegetables.
Starting seeds indoors involves preparing containers with moistened seed-starting mix and planting seeds at the correct depth. Keeping them warm and humid, and providing ample light from grow lights once they sprout will ensure success. Consistent moisture via bottom watering works best, and hardening them off before transplanting outside after the last frost is important to prevent shock. Key elements are clean supplies, sterile mix, sufficient light (grow lights), and consistent moisture without sogginess, labeling, and a fan for air circulation to prevent mold.
Some things you will need:
Essential for sturdy seedlings is a grow light. Shop lights with
T8 or T12 bulbs work well.
Heat Mat (Optional): Speeds up germination.
Humidity Dome/Plastic wrap: To retain moisture.
Labels: To identify plants.
Spray bottle for initial moistening.
Sheet pan or tray to hold seedling containers so they can be watered from the bottom.
Small Fan: To strengthen stems and prevent mold.
Prepare the Mix: Dampen the seed-starting mix in a separate container until it's moist but not dripping. Fill trays/pots with the mix, tapping gently to settle, and label them. If using last year’s containers, it’s a good idea to wash them with a mild bleach/water solution to be sure there are no lingering pathogens to attack your new baby plants.
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Photo: Dave Skinner
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Sow the Seeds: Plant your seeds at packet recommended depth (a good rule is twice the seed's width), planting 2-3 per cell, then lightly cover with planting soil.
Add labels. You may think you’ll remember what you planted where, but you won’t. If you’ve planted the same variety in an entire tray, one label will do. If you’ve planted multiple varieties in the same tray, each cell or each area should be labeled. When potting up, each container with one plant should have a label.
Water & Cover: After planting, mist the surface and cover the tray or pots with a humidity dome or plastic wrap. If your house or the place where you’re growing seeds is really cool, a heat mat is a good idea. Place seed starting container on a heat mat or in a warm spot for germination.
Place under Lights: Once seeds have sprouted, remove humidity cover or plastic wrap and place seedlings under your light source. The light needs to be very close—2-3 inches above seedlings.
Water from Below: Once seedlings emerge, keep moist by adding water to the bottom tray, letting them wick up moisture. Allow soil to dry slightly between waterings. Overly damp soil and water on the leaves creates an environment beneficial to the fungi which cause mold and damping off.
Thin Seedlings: Once
true leaves appear, snip (don’t pull) the weaker seedlings, leaving the strongest one.
Introduce Air: Use a small fan to gently blow on seedlings for 10-15 minutes a day to build strong stems. Good air circulation reduces humidity around seedlings. Good air circulation is also crucial to discourage conditions favorable to harmful fungi. Starting seedlings in a place with a ceiling fan that you can leave on works well.
Harden Off: Gradually acclimate seedlings to outdoor conditions (sun, wind) over 1-2 weeks before transplanting. We’ll talk about that in a future post.
Also, refer to the Calendar for North Florida Gardens in the left sidebar to determine which plants grow best in the spring, when to plant seeds in the ground or start them in containers, etc.
