Saturday, October 25, 2025

Centipedes vs. Millipedes

 

Flat-backed millipede in the family
Paradoxosomatinae

The sound of an “oh no!“ as my neighbor was looking at the new compost in my garden bed made me turn around. She had found a whole host of little long multi-legged varmints crawling around the edge of the compost within the bed.  She viewed them as pests that I needed to dispose of.  I wasn’t sure.

First identify.  When submitted to iNaturalist, there was a whole variety of opinions about exactly what these were. There was agreement that they were arthropods known as millipedes in the family Paradoxosomatinae, but no specific identification was made. 

Scientist have grouped centipedes and millipedes together for identification because of their many segmented bodies. There are more than 3,000 known centipedes and an estimated 8,000 species. There are upwards of 7,000 known and 80,000 estimated species of millipedes.  The inability to make a specific identification is understandable.

Centipedes and millipedes are quite different in their effect on a garden. Both are beneficial, but in different ways. They are not something you want to destroy.

In addition to their long segmented bodies, they are alike in a number of ways: 
  • Both have poor or non-existent vision and rely on other senses, like the feel of vibrations.
  • The longest species of each measure about six inches in length.
  • Both prefer dark, moist environments such as under stones, leaf litter, logs, bark, or soil crevices.
  • Both are primarily nocturnal, emerging from their hiding places at night to hunt and feed.  
  • Both are beneficial in the garden environment.  
Despite their similarities, their differences are more notable.  The easiest way to identify whether you’re seeing a centipede or a millipede is the number of legs on each body segment. Centipedes have one pair per body segment while millipedes have two. The difference in benefits they provide to the garden are also clear. Centipedes are predators and help to reduce the insect population, while millipedes are decomposers and eat decaying plants and other organic matter, rarely attacking live plants.  

Feature 

Centipede 

Millipede 

Legs 

One pair per body segment, legs stick out from the sides 

Two pairs per body segment, located underneath the body 

Body Shape 

Flattened 

Rounded 

Antennae 

Long and whip-like 

Short and elbowed 

Movement 

Fast 

Slow 

Diet 

Carnivorous; preys on insects and other small arthropods 

Detritivores; eats decaying plants and other organic matter 

Defense 

Venomous bite (not usually dangerous to humans) 

Curl into a ball and may secrete irritating fluid 

Lifespan 

1-6 years 

2-10+ years


This is once again a reminder to identify what you’re seeing before you destroy something that may be beneficial to your garden.

More info:  



Wednesday, October 22, 2025

More About Emerging Roselle Diseases and Pests

Roselle—TYLCV Positive and Anthracnose


In late September, we posted a warning about a new pest found on the Roselle in the VegHeadz garden. Extension agent Mark Tancig subsequently delivered specimens to the UF Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic for analysis. The analysis report can be seen below. It is not good news. The Roselle is infected by a virus, by a fungus, and two insect pests. The most worrisome part of this report is that these pests and diseases can affect other plants such as cotton, okra, tomatoes, beans, and others.  

Any plants suspected of being infected, either Roselle or any of the other species listed in the report, should be pulled and disposed of in the manner recommended by the lab.

The infestations are not happening just in our garden – the distorted and damaged Roselle leaves have been sighted in other areas of the city as well as in adjoining counties and other areas of Florida.  Additional information can be obtained from the Extension here in Leon County or in your area. This is potentially devastating to home gardeners, market gardeners, and farmers who produce any of the affected species. 

Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic
155 Research Road
Quincy, FL 32351
Phone: 850-875-7140Fax: 352-846-6617
 Email: fbiriarte@ufl.edu
PLANT SPECIMEN DIAGNOSTIC REPORT       Specimen # 2025-190
SUBMITTED BY
Mark Tancig
Leon County Extension Office
615 Paul Russell Rd
Tallahassee, FL  32303
tancig00@ufl.edu
PLANT
Hibiscus (Hibiscus sp.)
METHOD SUBMITTED
Walk-In
VARIETY
Roselle
CLASS
Woody Ornamental
INTERNAL LAB NO.
 
LAB FEE
$40.00
REPLY FROM LAB
September 29, 2025
PHONE
850-606-5217
COUNTY
LEON, FL
PLANT MATERIAL
Leaves
RECEIVED BY LAB
September 24, 2025
CONDITION UPON ARRIVAL
Good sample, fair information 
DIAGNOSTICIAN(s)
Fanny Iriarte, Ph.D.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
Gnarled, deformed leaves. Mottle or mosaic.
DIAGNOSTIC TECHNIQUE(S)
    __ Agdia Immunostrip X  Microscopic__ Reverse transcription-PCR
    __ Fatty Acid Analysis X  Molecular Analysis__ Serological
    __ Incubation__ Other__ Techniques
    __ Isothermal amplification X  PCR__ Visual Observation
    __ Lab Tests and Services__ Recombinase polymerase amplification
     X  Media__ Reverse transcription real time PCR RT-qPCR
GROWER INFORMATION
Mark Tancig
Leon County Extension Office
615 Paul Russell Rd
Tallahassee, FL  32303
850-606-5217
tancig00@ufl.edu
REFERRAL INFORMATION
 
Diagnosis/Recommendations 
Diagnosis: Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus (TYLCV) (Begomovirus)
Category: Virus
Comments: Your Hibiscus plant tested POSITIVE for Tomato yellow leaf curl virus (TYLCV). TYLCV is one of the most important viral diseases of tomato. TYLCV has been reported to have a diverse host range including 49 plant species belonging to 16 families around the world. In the U.S. it is known to infect plants in the solanaceous family, common bean (Phaseolus vulgaris), and Ornamentals (including Petunia, Lisianthus, hibiscus, poinsettia and others).


MANAGEMENT

As you know there is no control for viral diseases and the best thing you can do is remove and discard infected plant material away from the site to avoid the spread. It is also important to control the whiteflies to stop the spread of the virus to other host plants nearby.

Most of the recommendations for management of whiteflies are related to tomato crop but some information may be useful and applicable to a poinsettia garden in the link below.

You may also want to contact Dr. Martini (cc here) for simple methods to control whiteflies in garden setting.

 
Diagnosis: Anthracnose (Colletotrichum gloeosporioides)
Category: Fungus
Comments: Colletotrichum gleosporioides abundant spores were also recovered from leaf and stem reddish spots. The disease is called Anthracnose.

For more information about Anthracnose please see: Anthracnose Disease of Ornamental Plants: A Pictorial

MANAGEMENT
  • Remove and discard infected plant material away from the site.
  • Avoid or reduce overhead irrigation, water early in the morning and avoid stress to the plant.
  • Avoid overwatering.
  • Avoid any stress to the plant.
  • Early spring protectant fungicide may help prevent further infections.
For possible chemical control recommendations see "Anthracnose" at: 2017 Southeastern US Pest Control Guide for Nursery Crops and Landscape Plantings.
 
Diagnosis: Two-spot cotton leafhopper (Amrasca biguttula) (syn. Cotton Jassid)
Category: Insect
Comments: Severe damage caused by two-spotted cotton leafhopper (Amrasca biguttula) also known as "Jassid" was also confirmed by our entomologist Dr. Isaac Esquivel. This insect pest, first found late 2024, can cause severe damage on cotton in Florida. It can also attack okra, eggplant, tomato, hibiscus and others.
For any questions or concern about management of this insect pest, please contact Dr. Esquivel.

Please be advised that records produced as a result of this analysis are public records subject to disclosure under Florida law.

Plant Disease Diagnostician: Fanny Iriarte, Ph.D.

Our lab website: http://nfrec.ifas.ufl.edu/ AND https://plantpath.ifas.ufl.edu/u-scout/index.html


Friday, October 3, 2025

Wednesday in the Garden — Bamboo, Bananas and Biochar

Linda L. is loading garden mix 
from a pile near one of the 
two bamboo clumps.
Fall planting season is in full swing and our gardeners are busy getting seeds and seedlings in the ground. 

We wanted to give you an update on our clumping bamboo planted in April 2019, and our biochar trial, which got underway at the garden workday on Wednesday.

This looks like a lot of bamboo, but both clumps of bamboo are well behaved and although tall, do not take up much space on the ground.

Clumping bamboos usually develop new shoots in the fall.   A little over a month ago, Louie D. noticed some coming up around the edges of the clumps. She knocked them over and removed them (this is easy before they harden). This left those coming up in the middle. The spiky new shoots can be seen at the top of the clump.  The shoots emerge from the rhizomes at their mature diameter and grow to their full height very quickly, often in a matter of weeks.

The new culms (the bamboo version of a trunk) have grown larger in circumference each year. We like to use them to define paths in the forest garden, and to build garden structures, such as trellises and tomato supports.

The footprint of the clump
is not very large

The bamboo stays erect, except when it rains.  Then the weight of the water on the leaves causes the culms to arch over, sometimes reaching the ground.  They usually return to an upright position after they dry.  If they don’t, we cut them off so they don’t get in the way. The area under the clumps is shady, quiet, and cool. We’re thinking of putting a bench there so we have another place to hang out in the heat.

Clumping bamboos usually belong to the Bambusa genus.  Those in the VegHeadz garden are Bambusa textilis gracilis and  Bambusa chungii barbelatta

Something else we noticed this week is the bananas. After a cold winter and a week of snow on the ground, the bananas got a slow start this spring.   They just recently sprouted a number of huge clumps of bananas. There’s little chance they will mature before cold weather later this fall, but we’ve learned that even when they’re not fully developed, they can be harvested and ripened.  To learn more about our ripening experiment, insert “banana ripening” in the search box in the right sidebar. 

 
When fully developed, this would 
be a substantial
crop of bananas

Banana blooms are complex and
interesting





















There is a new row of florets under each bract layer of the red blossom or “heart.” Each row of florets develops into a “hand“ of bananas. Cutting The blossom off will stop new bananas from forming, and direct the plant’s energy into maturing the ones that have already emerged.  The florettes are edible, and the blossom contains an edible core in the center. These are used in Asian recipes.

Finally, we are preparing to move our biochar trial into the garden.  Four different versions of a compost/biochar mixture have been “marinating” and have now been added to the trial plots.  

Last week—an overgrown
 watermelon patch—and weeds




Watermelons and weeds gone
Four 4 x 4 beds


Six inches of soil removed from 
beds and mixed together to
provide a uniform growing medium
Photo:  Lisa Jacobson

Four different mixtures of 
compost and biochar were 
added to the beds along 
with the mixed soil from the beds. 
Photo:  Lisa Jacobson


The workers who made it happen

Ready for the next phase.   In a 
couple of weeks we’ll plant the
same crops in each bed.
Photo:  Lisa Jacobson 

Saturday, September 27, 2025

BUG ALERT!

If you look closely, you can 
see the insect on the flower.
Photo:  Peggy McDonald
We’ve been noticing some discolored and deformed leaves on this year‘s Roselle plants. Peggy the VegHeadz “Roselle Queen” has been harvesting calyxes for several weeks.  She was very concerned about the appearance of the plants, particularly since she learned that our garden was not the only place the problem is appearing.  From Peggy:

ROSELLE HAS A NEW PEST AND IT'S BAD. THE TWO-SPOT COTTON LEAFHOPPER HAS ATTACKED PLANTS ALL OVER LEON COUNTY AND IN SOUTH FLORIDA.

Horticultural Agent Mark Tancig had the Roselle plants which are growing in the VegHeadz Garden tested and here are the results.

"It’s an insect! Some new pest of cotton that also gets hibiscus and roselle. Those aren’t whiteflies we saw, it’s these leaf hoppers. I checked today. Good news is the seed isn’t affected. Bad news is few known control options."

Follow the link to an article about the pest and for control and management options.

https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/news/2025/09/15/uf-ifas-warns-of-emerging-pest-threatening-south-florida-crops-two-spot-cotton-leafhopper-detected/
Two-spot Cotton Leafhopper
Photo:  Alexandra Revynthi

Our fruit is okay this year because the insect appeared late in the season, but not sure about next year. With stunted deformed leaves the yields will be more affected next year.

Burn all infected plants or bag for the landfill; do not compost this material!

We will keep you posted.


Tuesday, September 23, 2025

NetZero

If you click on the Google Earth image in the left sidebar, you’ll notice some details of which you may not have been aware. The building which houses the UF/IFAS Leon County Extension is a net zero building.  NetZero is the balance point where the greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions produced by human activities are equal to the amount of GHG removed from the atmosphere through natural or artificial processes.  In this building, it also means that the property produces its own power, heating and cooling, and recycled rain water for irrigation of the surrounding gardens.

Overseen for the Extension by now retired conservation agent Will Sheftall, the retrofit has been operating since 2012. It was certified as NetZero a little over a year after its completion.  The building, owned by Leon County, is also designated as the County’s “Sustainable Demonstration Center.“

Two parking areas serve multiple purposes. The east parking lot immediately adjacent to the building is covered with solar panels which produce energy for the building and shade for parking. The other parking area is south of the building, adjoining the Bed 5 tropical demonstration garden, and the vegetable gardens. This turf parking area covers 60 geothermal wells or bores, each 90 feet deep, which supply heating and cooling to the building.

Solar array over parking area
Photo:  Kendra Zamojski  

The seven horticultural demonstration gardens, the fruit orchard, and the vegetable gardens are all irrigated with rainwater collected from the roof of the building and stored in a repurposed 500 gallon gas tank, which is underground next to the fruit orchard west of the building.

Extension, under the leadership of University of Florida’s Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (UF/IFAS), brings UF's research and education to every county in Florida. It is a leading educator and proponent of earth friendly practices in home, family and businesses as well as in community planning, food systems, energy, water, disaster preparedness, farming, horticulture, and gardening.  It also fosters environmental and health education for youth through 4-H, school gardens, and other programs. https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/sustainable-communities/sustainability-starts-here/ 

There is a wealth of information and assistance available from the Extension which can be accessed both online and by contacting the staff or Master Gardener volunteers.  The local Extension operates under the umbrella of the Leon County Office of Resource Management in a joint arrangement with UF/IFAS.  More information about this partnership here.  

NetZero Certification details here:  https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RCJQU6sC6pSLjcNG0PhYFIRzF8ODEmOW/view?usp=drivesdk

US Depatnent of Energy site about this building:  https://www.energy.gov/sites/default/files/2024-09/geothermal-heat-pump-case-study-leon-county.pdf

Article about the project by Will Sheftall:  https://PIts.ifas.ufl.edu/nat/author/sheftall/

Wednesday, September 17, 2025

Wednesday in the Garden

Field Peas (cowpeas)
It was a lovely day in the VegHeadz garden. We harvested Roselle, eggplants and field peas. The gardeners gathered for our fall planning meeting chaired by Glenn B.  We had an outstanding turnout and much interesting discussion as we reviewed last season’s crop and made plans for the new season. Stay tuned for upcoming adventures in the garden as fall crops are planted and our biochar trial gets under way. In the meantime, share with us some of the scenes from our garden today.  

Each fall we get to enjoy the exotic blooms from our neighboring demonstration bed – Bed 5–Tropicals. In their native area, many of them are evergreen perennials.  In our area, they die back to the ground in the winter, get a late start in the spring when the soil warms up, spend all summer growing, and only reach their full potential in the fall. Sharing them in pictures is lovely, but to truly appreciate them you must see them in person. Come by the demonstration garden on Paul Russell Road to see them while they’re still in their prime. It’s worth the trip. (We don’t know the names of all of them.)

Firebush




Yellow Butterfly Vine
Callaeum macropterum

Red Bird of Paradise — Peacock Flower — Pride of Barbados
Caesalpinia pullcherrima

Blue Cat’s Whiskers
Rotheca myricoides

Candelabra Bush
Senna Alata





Red Orchid Tree
(Bauhinia galpinii)




Thai Basil


Field peas as cover crop
And to harvest


Cover crops—Mustard and, in the rear, Buckwheat

Zebra Longwing, official Florida butterfly
On Firebush (Hamelia patens)

Peggy harvested Roselle 
calyxes in the cage erected to
keep  out deer 


 

Sunday, September 7, 2025

Saving Seeds

Luffa seeds. Photo by Peggy McDonald
Most plants have worked all year to produce buds and then flowers, fruit, and finally seeds. As they reach the end of their productive season, or the end of their lives, it’s our opportunity to gather another harvest, this time to ensure next year’s crop.

There are some seeds we don’t want to save.  It’s a good time to remove as many weeds as we can before they sow next year’s problem. 

The Leon County Master Gardeners are beginning now to propagate plants for next year’s May plant sale. In addition to growing from cuttings, they are gathering seeds to plant this fall or next spring to produce small shrubs, saplings, and seedlings for transplant.

Cuttings produce a clone of the host plant with identical genetic makeup, while seeds may or may not have the same traits as the parent plants. While we have a wide range of choices when buying seeds, they don’t compare to Nature’s unlimited varieties. The seeds for many heirlooms and less familiar plants are only available from other gardeners, boutique growers, or online sources like eBay and Etsy.  

By saving seeds from your strongest and most productive plants, you create your own varieties that are better adapted to your local conditions. Saving seeds from your garden is a rewarding practice that preserves genetic diversity and saves money.  Relying less on commercial seed companies increases your independence as a gardener. 

You can help protect and maintain unique, often rare, plant varieties that are not widely available in the commercial market.  Many seeds carry a rich cultural history. Saving and sharing them with others helps keep these seeds and stories alive. Seminole pumpkins, heirloom varieties of okra, and unique cowpeas and beans come to mind.  Often they have been nurtured and saved by families for multiple generations.  The process is also helpful in understanding plant life cycles and genetics, especially for children. 

The best time to harvest seeds is when the fruits or pods have reached full maturity and the seeds inside are fully developed. A dry day is ideal for harvesting to prevent potential rot and mold. For dry-fruited plants like beans, peas, and okra, leave the seed pods or heads on the plant until they are completely dry and brown.  For wet-fruited plants such as tomatoes, squash, and cucumbers, the fruit should be allowed to fully ripen on the plant. The seeds inside will be mature at this stage.  For flowers, wait until the blossoms have faded and the seed heads have turned brown and dried out.

Properly collecting, preparing, and storing seeds ensures their viability for future planting. The following references, focusing specifically on our north Florida area, contain everything you need to know to produce great seeds for next year’s crops and to share with others.  

Wednesday, August 27, 2025

Timing is (Almost) Everything

We’re starting to think about fall planting, ordering seeds and starting some plants in flats.  When planning your garden each season, timing your planting is of utmost importance.  

North Florida generally has two main gardening seasons—a shorter spring/summer season for warm-weather crops and a longer, more productive fall/winter season for cool-weather vegetables, while the intense heat and humidity of mid-summer is only suitable for a few varieties.

Different vegetables are adapted to different temperature ranges.Warm-season crops are sensitive to cold and will not grow—or will be severely stunted—if planted when soil temperatures are too cool. This includes tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers.  Conversely, when temperatures get too warm, the same plants will stop blooming and setting fruit. They must be grown within a distinct range of average temperatures.

Cool-season crops prefer different conditions. They may "bolt" (prematurely produce flowers and seeds) if they mature in excessive heat, which can cause the leaves to become bitter. This applies to leafy greens like lettuce and spinach as well as hardier greens like kale, collards, and mustard.  Proper timing aligns your plants with the natural cycles of nature and provides ideal moisture and light conditions, allowing for strong root development and healthy growth.  

It’s always a good idea to plant earlier in the suggested range.  Early planting in spring will allow crops to mature for harvest before the crush of bugs and diseases.  Early planting in fall will allow seeds to germinate and crops to get started before cool weather slows them down.  Some crops may need protection when planted early.  In the fall, depending on the heat level, earlier plantings may need to be protected with shade cloth from over-exposure to sun and heat and to discourage late summer bugs.  In spring, tender seedlings may need to be protected with frost cloth from late freezes.  

Practice succession planting.  Plant small batches of the same crop every few weeks throughout the planting window.  This will ensure a steady supply of vegetables and improve your chances of hitting the environmental sweet spot for temperature, light, etc.  Every year is different. 

Choose the right varieties: Select vegetable varieties that are recommended for the north Florida climate. Local nurseries are a good source for varieties appropriate for our area.   

This probably sounds somewhat confusing. It is difficult to keep up with, particularly if you’ve recently moved from another part of the country and are accustomed to a totally different planting schedule. The Red Hills Small Farm Alliance has developed a planting calendar particularly appropriate for our unique area.  It can be relied upon to keep you on track with the correct dates for starting seeds, planting seedlings and direct sowing.  The planting calendar and monthly gardening advice from Gardener Ed are available in the left sidebar to let you know what to plant each month.

Or follow our links to two different versions of the planting calendar. One can be printed or saved, the other will import a Google calendar with the same information, which you can turn on and off in your calendar app to keep you up-to-date each month on what should be planted then.  We find that both calendars are useful. The printed one is good for planning your garden, determining what seeds to order and when, deciding when in a planting window is best to plant, and getting a sense of gardening seasons. The calendar app is great for deciding what and seedlings to buy locally and what to plant on any particular day that you have time to spend in the garden.


Same information for import to a Google calendar:  Link to Google calendar. Or use the QR Code below.  When you access the link or the code, an option should pop up to download the planting calendar. If you have trouble accessing it on your phone or iPad, try a laptop or desktop computer. Once you have it downloaded, it will appear as an optional calendar on any of your devices. You can turn it off or on by selecting the planting calendar in the menu of your calendar app.  

The app was created by local gardener Liz Hammock. Here’s her take on gardening and how she uses the calendar app: 

“My early childhood was spent on a small farm in rural middle Tennessee and being in the garden feels essential. The resources supplied from Red Hills and Master Gardeners and the Extension office have been really helpful for me to get oriented to gardening in this climate. 

My career is indoors and my gardening time is more limited than I would like. I noticed I was spending perhaps too much of my very limited gardening time reading and sorting my seed packets rather than actually putting seeds in the ground and letting the sun and rain take it from there (my compost pile contributes too). It occurred to me that I really needed something to tell me what to put in the ground the next time I could be in the garden. 

The planting guide that was already available just needed to be on my phone to be used - at the store if I needed to pick up seeds or in the garden when a new spot opened up. Having the planting guide in calendar form has already transformed my own gardening time- less planning and more doing. The calendar quickly turns my garden dreams into action by telling me what to put in the ground today. I certainly could not have done it without the guide that Red Hills distributes freely. I hope many people will benefit!”